¡Cuba! Vińales National Park + Havana in 4 days
- Alexis Haviters
- Jul 24, 2020
- 13 min read
Updated: Oct 19, 2021
Cuba is a unique country and unlike any other place I have ever explored. We absolutely felt infatuated with the culture, people, landscapes, and their way of life. We did a lot in our 4 days there! Illegally rock climbed some of the best rock faces in the world, partied in the streets, smoked cigars while we rode horses from a tobacco plantation, did a sunrise hike, took a salsa dancing class, and even had time to explore Havana!
The 12 Ways You Can Legally Travel to Cuba as a US Citizen
Your first step is to choose one of the 12 categories to travel under in order to legally explore Cuba. Now you might be asking, what does picking a category mean? This concept is pretty much exclusive when traveling in Cuba. Essentially you choose a theme that you need to stick to and abide to those unique rules in order to meet the criteria of that category you choose. This is not something you apply for, rather you just do it
The most popular, ethical, and easiest category is 'Support the Cuban People', which is what Ryan and I did. It’s pretty self-explanatory- don’t give the government your business. After you decide on your category, you then can go ahead and book your flight to Havana airport, which is the only legal way you can enter Cuba at the moment. Upon purchasing your ticket for your flight you will be asked which category you will be traveling under so make sure you have settled on one.
Ok, so I chose my category I want to travel under….now what?
When you choose the category you wish to travel under you do not apply for this- you just do it! When making a typical reservation for your trip such as, purchasing tickets, tours, etc. you will constantly be asked what category you’re traveling under and that's when you state it. Keep in mind, there are different rules for each category so make sure you do your research.
Traveling under 'Support The Cuban People' Category
This was the category Ryan and I traveled under and we LOVED it! Anything and everything that you do must support the locals. I particularly love this one for obvious reasons and the fact that you get a closer look into their culture and daily lives. When traveling under this category you are basically promising not to provide any business to government hotels, stores, restaurants, or yellow taxis (government owned taxis). At first this seemed really difficult to avoid because you don't realize how much the government owns, but then I realized it was the easiest thing to do since so many locals are eager to work. Fortunately, Airbnb experiences is filled with opportunities to support Cuban citizens so we pretty much used Airbnb stays and experiences for all the excursions we did. I will include a review of my experience, photos, and clickable links to the reservations as I discuss them.
When booking places to stay on Airbnb I searched for "casa particulares", which are stays that fulfill the 'support the Cuban people' category.
Permitted Transportation Under Support The Cuban People Category:
Colectivo / basically paid hitch hiking-Yup! it's a way of life over there
Private taxis / our Airbnb host arranged this for us
Public bus / we did not bother with this
The Cheapest, Easiest, & Quickest Way to Get a Visa
Getting our visas was super easy and seamless! We purchased our visas for $50 when we were re-checking in our bags at our connecting flight in Miami airport. This price is the best you'll find anywhere. Seriously though, I researched other avenues and they were all double the price and more complicating to get. Though this process was quick and easy for us (30 min!), the airlines advises arriving 3 hours prior to your flights departure.
Tips & Tricks:
If traveling under support the Cuban people, then avoid the yellow taxis (they’re run by the government).
Bargain! Bargain! Bargain! Cabs & other services will always charge more than the actual price.
For those in need of internet - Wi-Fi is super limited, grab yourself a Wi-Fi card at any corner store or hotel, head to the zones where its available.
Check in counters close the flight 1 hour before departing to Cuba. It is recommended that you arrive 2-3 hours before your flight as you will need spare time get your visa and other paperwork.
Exchange rate is BEST at the official bank of Vinales.
USD is widely preferred and accepted by Cuban people and businesses.
There are 2 currencies that you will be told you need for different things. My advise; Don't bother exchanging for pesos, only CUC is necessary.
Drone's are illegal and will be confiscated at the airport.
Packing Essentials:
Photocopy of your passport (FYI: 2 blank pages must be available).
Printed out documents of itinerary such as your Airbnb stay, Airbnb experiences etc. You will quickly need these and don't expect to hook up to any Wi-Fi at Havana airport.
Print out copies of maps and addresses seen on the maps. This will be helpful when communicating with your driver.
Bug spray or citronella essential oil
Toiletries- don't expect to think you can walk into a store and buy this stuff there. There is no CVS or stores like that there.
Snacks
Zip lock bags for Cuban cigars to bring home (be sure to check the updated regulations)
Lysol wipes: YES! according to Forbes, "Airplane seatback trays are the dirtiest place on the airplane. The same study shows that trays have 2,155 CFU per square inch. That’s 8x higher than the toilet flush button."
Day 1 / Getting to Vinales National Park + Rock Climbing
Tranquility and thrill gracefully merge here in Vinales National Park. Approximately 2.5 hours away from Havana airport. Located on the western countryside Vinales uniquely encompasses farmlands, small towns, and original mountain ranges called mogotes. This studded valley gives the Viñales Valley its beautiful characteristics, easily representing some of the most beautiful landscapes in Cuba.
We took a very early flight that got us into Havana Airport by 8 am. We had previously arranged our transportation through our Airbnb host so we had a taxi waiting for us at the airport. I recommend you do the same as there is absolutely NO Wi-Fi or service upon arrival. We were immediately floored by his gorgeous vintage automobile and felt the stoke right away! We enjoyed looking out the window and talking about things we observed, like all the hitchhikers standing under the overpass for shade waiting for a colectivo to pick them up, or the fact that auto body shops don't exist and it is normal to see someone repairing their car on the side of the road. On top of all this, I really loved listening to the radio. It tells you so much about a culture and in Cuba music is their escape. Feeling the energy through the radio makes you feel so connected to the people and fall in love with their unique ways of life that they live.
While we were driving, we had asked him to take us to the best place to convert US dollars to Cuban CUC. He took us to the only bank in town located on main street in Vinales Valley, where we got the best rate you could possibly hear of.
From there we headed to our Airbnb, a coffee farm in mountains where we would find our simple and modest bedroom. We had such a great experience and we highly recommend choosing to stay with this beautiful family, click here to book with them. Upon arriving you'll be greeted with a coffee and/or a mojito -we chose both and watched them pick the mint! This place was PERFECT! The vibes, scenery, fresh coffee from the farm, and lovable dogs were some of our best moments and views. We loved getting to know the family, sipping on fresh Cuban coffee at a bistro table with mountains surrounding us while butterflies and dragonflies zip all around. The only downside is that it's location is a little further away from the small village (10-15 min drive), which was a minor inconvenience. Most tourists stay in town which makes it easy when meeting up with tour guides, getting a bite to eat, etc. We had to constantly take a 10-15 min taxi ride back and forth, which was the only downside in my opinion. After it was all said and done, we felt it was worth the trade off.
Airbnb: Casa Mayra y Luis Vinales, Cuba $15/night and ask them to arrange your pick up at the airport. They're rates are just right and very reliable.
Rock Climbing:
After a delicious lunch and well needed shower we headed to our first excursion-rock climbing! This was such a great adventure, our guide was experienced, price was very reasonable ($40/per person), and we climbed as much as we wanted! We went with Adrian who we found on Airbnb experiences. He was very knowledgeable on the surrounding environment, provided all the equipment including shoes (clip your toe nails because it will affect your comfort). We met with in town and an easy short hike to the cliff faces. It was spectacular views and the farm animal sounds in the valley echoed around. There were some cool caves we wandered into, chilled in, and took in the low key views. Click here to reserve with him
We got back just before sunset and we grabbed a drinks and a bite to eat. Just when we thought we were gonna head back to stargaze on the rooftop, we heard music and decided to follow it. When it came time to part ways with our rum, cigars, + an amazing band we realized it wasn't easy to get back to our place. We veered off track loving a stray and grabbing another drink but still we were back to square 1: not many options for a ride home....moments later we spotted the guitarist in the band we were just jamming out to catching a ride from his friend in a classic car. And that's when we asked if we could get one too. This was my favorite night in Cuba.
Day 2 / Sunrise Hike + Horseback Ride to Tobacco Plantation
Waking up was rough and we quickly regretted the late night drinks. We began the hike in the dark out of town and ascended into the rolling hills for approximately 1.5 hours. The initial sunrise was stunning with the neon colors but the actual sun did not rise over the mountains till later on. It was so perfect, hundreds of dragonflies were flying all around me, the birds were just waking up saying good morning, and the farmer's bulls were still resting in the grass. I peacefully sat as the sun gently rose above the mountains casting a glowing white light. Later on, as we descended back down, the early warm sun gave us a big welcome for another beautiful day. What was really nice about this is that we were done no later than noon and we still had the whole rest of the day. Click here to enjoy this sunrise hike!
After we walked around town and headed back to our place. Ryan napped and I did some yoga on the rooftop of our bedroom to recoup for our next journey. We gathered ourselves together and got ready for the next half of our day, horseback riding and visiting a tobacco plantation.
If you have never horseback rode before, this is a great opportunity to change that. The horses were calm and they appropriately paired you with a horse that is best for you. Our group was small, which made it personable and easy to meet like minded people. Additionally, the tour guides were locals who actually worked on the farm and were so caring, attentive to our needs, and were super happy to take videos/photos for us.
The horseback ride was long and relaxing with AMAZING views of Vinales Valley. After 45 minutes (more or less) of riding our horses we had arrived at the plantation. They greeted us with delicious home cooked meals, fresh mojitos, and cigars for additional costs. After they gave us a tour of their facilities which was highly educational and taught us step by step how to roll a Cuban cigar and explained the difference between some of the famous cigars such as, Romeo and Juliet's and Montecristo, and Cohiba.
If time had permitted us, we would of continued our journey with our horses to a cave where we would have swam. We did not get to do that as we were in the moment and really connected with the farmers at the plantation and it simply got too late to go. Instead, we hung around, chatted, and caught the beginning of the sunset in the valley while we rode our horses back. There is an opportunity to purchase their cigars so Ryan and I got a few for us to smoke on our way back as we rode horses through the national park and while we hung around. Absolutely no regrets. Click here to experience this for yourself!
The Legality with Cuban Cigars
We asked our Airbnb host if they knew any local farmers who could provide us with 200 cigars for a few dollars each, which is the max you can travel back to the US with. Fortunately they did, this poor farmer down the road who is required by law to sell all the hand rolled cigars to the government as they own majority of their business. We sadly learned that the government takes about 85% of the farmers income and did not want to be apart of that.
When we arrived he was over the moon as this isn't his typical business transaction and doesn't interact with tourists nor speak a lick of English. We paid all cash so that way the transaction was not documented and it could be easily hidden from the government. We made our arrangements 2 days in advance so he had time to hand roll all of them. He shared with us that what he made that day, is what he makes in a year since the government takes most of it ($450 USD). With this being said, I highly recommend you check the most up to date information on the legality with traveling with Cuban cigars.
Day 3 / Check Out + Head to Havana
Our transportation to our Airbnb transportation to Havana was organized through our previous Airbnb host in Vinales. This was the same driver who had been bringing us around all along. The entire trip he had been professional, patient, incredibly nice, and their prices were more than reasonable.
When we arrived we immediately fell in love with our Airbnb stay in Havana. It was certainly a highlight for us. The host is an artist and he had tastefully incorporated his glass window work. Our favorite part was the upstairs patio where there was a hammock, his workshop, and gorgeous décor. Our host, Alberto, kindly fixed us up a cup of coffee and helped us mapped out our day in Havana. Click here to book this stay!
Day 4 / Havana
I loved how all the locals genuinely owned and drove classic cars in the countryside, in contrast to Havana where the classic cars were used as a tourist centered attraction. In this sense, I felt a disconnect with the Cuban culture and felt like it was all a show in Havana. My mind immediately changed as we continued to explore the beautiful city. Ryan and I wandered into party shops, places to buy car parts, local bars, parks, pharmacies, and residential areas. We began to notice the raw culture, enjoyed feeling the love between Cubans, and uniqueness way of life.
Salsa Dancing Lessons in Havana
Hands down this was the BEST salsa lesson Ryan and I have ever done. We took an hour lesson class at La Casona del SON. The door can easily be missed, so keep a careful look out for large wooden door. When you enter you will be awed with art work, beautiful tile work, and a beautiful interior. Juan provided us our lesson with his female partner and they were incredibly professional. Juan placed all his attention towards Ryan and how to lead while his partner placed all her attention on me and how to follow. This was an enriching experience as we have previously had taken salsa lessons elsewhere. We had so many laughs, addressed misconceptions, and got a well rounded understanding on Salsa. Additionally, they offer other classes like taxi dancers (a professional dancer offering you lessons/dancing partner and taking you out for a night in the city) and percussion classes. I highly recommend booking an hour class with them and to do this you have to call- super old school. Bring cash!!! 18 CUC/1 hour private lesson per person. Their information can be found below:
La Casona del SON
Telefone: (+53) 78616179 or (+53) 52641047
Empedrado No. 411
e/ Aguacate y Compostela
Habana Vieja, La Habana, Cuba
Havana in The Daytime
El Captial is a solid place to get a good view of what represents Havana. It's basically a large structural building where people hang out on the steps, watch classic cars zoom by, enjoy the view of a series of colorful buildings, people watch, and discuss your next steps.
He and I wandered around town and into food spots as we passed them. If we heard music in the streets- we joined. Our day passed us by and we were buzzed on mojitos, dancing in the streets, and shopped around. Because of this I do not have any particular places to recommend to eat or head to.
Night Life
Havana's night scene thrives in the areas of Vedado, or Miramar. Vedado has created a far better reputation for itself, rightfully so. We decided to stay here to get away from the touristy vibe of old Havana and stay near the night scene. There are several suggestions and cool places to head out to but if you HAD to choose one….choose FAC (Fábrica de Arte Cubano).
FAC is. an. Experience. This thriving cultural ‘powerhouse’ which used to be an old cooking oil factory, has a little bit of everything where you’ll find unique and hip art, music (best place to catch live music), dance club, and bar. This place is overwhelmed with a blend of rich culture and it's a 30 min walk from our Airbnb.
Check the website as they have programs posted for Thursday-Sunday night. After 9 pm its 2 CUC/person→ Hold onto your ticket; you’ll need it to buy drinks/food.
Additional Spots for Havana's night life:
Jardines del 1830, Havana
At night only. Admission from £7.50 (depending on band); Malecón, corner of Calle 20, Vedado, +53 7838 3090; from 10pm
Floridita, Calle Obispo No 557
Opened in 1817 under the name La Piña de Plata, it became Floridita in 1914. Made world famous because the daiquiri was officially invented here and Ernest Hemingway was a regular in the 1930s while staying at Hotel Ambos Mundos. Another signature cocktail born here is known as the Papa Doble or Wild Daiquiri, which is a grapefruit-flavored version that is sour for Mr. Hemingway, who disliked sweet drinks. There is a good chance you’ll catch a live band.
La Gruta-soso, Avenida 23, La Habana, CubaThis is one of the better places to go salsa dancing in Havana. Located in the La Rampa area of Vedado you find a fun local crowd. Small cover charges of $3-5 CUC. Wear light clothing because it can get HOT in here with all the bodies moving! Ladies will be asked to check their purses at the door, so consider not bringing one. The FUN nights to go are Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. We met a guy along the Malecón who encouraged us to go here, it was a great recommendation!
La Zorra y el Cuervo, Calle 23 between N & O, Havana
It’s a popular spot with both locals and tourists, so expect a wait, but it’s well worth it. It’s wise to arrive a little before 10pm. With nightly performances, the entry fee is $10 CUC per person and includes two drinks. Kick back with a mojito and enjoy the intimate jazzy vibes.
The next day you will check out out and return home. I truly adored the culture and colors of Cuba. If I were to do it all over again, I wish I had 1 more night in Havana because we were so shot from our previous travels that it was difficult to stay awake at night. My favorite part of Cuba was Vinales hands down. If I am blessed to visit again, I would really like to immerse myself in Havana and give it more of a chance.
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